The Importance of Becoming Familiar with Diamonds

Diamonds should never be bought casually - there are too many risks and the uneducated customer will always lose. The best way to take the risk out of buying a diamond is to familiarize yourself with the marketplace, understand how diamonds are priced, and what is available to you (including synthetic diamonds and imitations). While the average consumer can’t hope to make the same precise judgements as a qualified gemologist, the consumer can still learn how to judge a stone beyond its critical factors (often referred to as “the 4Cs”). 

Learning about how diamonds are priced and spending time in the marketplace looking, listening, and asking questions before making the purchase will prepare you to become a wise buyer and maximize your investment. 

One of the most important things to learn is how to look at a diamond (even if you won’t see all that a gemologist does) and the terms that gemologists will often refer to. The terms become even more important when evaluating a diamond’s cut, which is the most important factor when evaluating any diamond.

The Most Common Terms used to Describe a Diamond's Cut 

Table - The table is the flat top of the stone and is the stone’s largest facet, often referred to as “the face” of the diamond. The term “table spread” is used to describe the width of the table facet and the table proportions will often indicate how a diamond will present itself.  

Girdle - The girdle is the edge or border of the stone that forms its perimeter. This is where the top of the stone meets the bottom portion, often referred to as its “dividing line”.

This is the part of the stone that is held by the prongs of a ring setting! 

Crown - The crown is the upper portion of the stone right above the girdle. 

Pavilion - The pavilion is the bottom portion of the stone, from the girdle down to the tip of the stone. 

Culet - The culet is the lowest point of the stone. 

These parts of a diamond vary in proportion and thus, affect its brilliance (sparkle), beauty, and desirability. 

Why is a Diamond's Cut so important?

The most important factor that must be evaluated and considered when purchasing a diamond is the Cut. When gemologists talk about the cut of a diamond, we are not referring to the shape of the diamond, but rather to the care and precision used when creating a diamond from the rough. 

There are many popular shapes for diamonds, but if the diamond is cut well, its brilliance (sparkle) and value will endure no matter what shape it is. Choosing a diamond shape is simply a matter of personal preference and taste - there is no right or wrong. The shape of the diamond will affect the personality it displays, but it is the overall cutting that releases its beauty and sparkle.

When a diamond is cut from its rough form, there are 2 scenarios that can happen: 

Cutting that takes the largest possible stone from the rough - yes, although the diamond appears “larger” or is cut with maximum carat weight, it often de-prioritizes the cutting process and exposes the diamond to vulnerabilities, such as breakage. Theoretically, these diamonds should be sold for less, but if you go to a non-trusted jeweler, other facts will be highlighted in the selling process (such as the larger carat weight), and the cut will be overlooked and the diamond will get misrepresented.

Cutting that takes the highest-quality stone from the rough. These diamonds will receive a high cut-grading and will often be more expensive. These types of diamonds often receive the most “diamond loss” during the cutting process. The rest of the rough diamond will often be used to make smaller diamonds or be used for industrial purposes. 

How to determine whether a diamond is well cut?

Thankfully, there are many ways to find out if a diamond is well-cut!

If you’re evaluating a Round Diamond (often referred to as a “brilliant cut diamond"), then you can find the cut grading by directly referring to its certificate. Unfortunately, only round diamonds can receive a formal cut grading on its certificate. All other diamond shapes, such as ovals, cushions, and emeralds, do not receive a formal cut grading. This is because the cutting of fancy-shaped diamonds can be considered “subjective”. What may be considered beautiful by one may not be considered beautiful for another. 

Whichever shape you choose, you can better determine both the quality of the stone and the quality of the cut by comparing loose diamonds to each other. This is much harder to do when comparing diamonds that are already set in rings, which is why we always suggest starting from scratch and picking a diamond in its loose form. 

Evaluate the diamond’s sparkle - we recommend always starting to look at a diamond from the face up, as this is most often noticed. As you look at the diamond, does the light seem to sparkle and dance across the whole stone, or are there any dead/dark spots? 

Evaluate the diamond’s symmetry - a quick way to check the symmetry of a diamond is to look at the table edges. Every facet should be parallel to one another. Thankfully, all diamond certificates disclose symmetry grading. 

Evaluate the diamond’s proportions - we recommend looking at the diamond’s proportions both from above and below the girdle. The stone’s proportions, whether it is too thin or too thick, will have a marked effect on its overall beauty. 

As you shop for engagement rings, it is not only important to compare diamonds next to each other, but it is also more important to buy from well-trusted and well-trained gemologists. Well-trusted gemologists will encourage you to go through these factors and explain how it might affect your purchasing decision.

Remember, you are not an expert. The information you read online should help you begin your search with more confidence, but it should never replace the importance of purchasing from someone you truly trust, who will make your entire experience fulfilling, easy, and stress-free.